Hawai’i
Many first-time visitors to Hawai’i, or The Big Island as it is commonly referred to, are surprised by how BIG it actually is. At over 4,000 square miles/10,360 square kilometers, it can easily hold all of the other Hawaiian islands combined. It is a 222-mile/357-kilometer circular trip to make it around the island during which you will pass through a diverse array of terrains, climates, and scenery. Keep in mind that the island is made up of five volcanoes as well as some of the most intense land and seascapes – the greenest greens, the bluest blues, the darkest blacks – that you will ever see.
One of the best guidebooks we have found for the island is Hawaii – The Big Island Revealed by Andrew Doughty. It also offers an app. While we do keep a copy of the book in our condo for our guests’ use, we do recommend checking it out beforehand.
The Big Island is loosely sectioned into two sides: the west side is the Kona side and the east side is the Hilo side.
The Kona Side
The legendary Kamehameha the Great, the first king to rule all the Hawaiian islands, could live anywhere he wanted. He chose Kona. It’s easy to see why.
Visitors are often confused by the name. Is it Kailua-Kona, Kona, or Kailua? The answer is…all three. Although it started as Kailua, a tiny fishing village which the great Hawaiian chiefs chose as their home for its unbeatable weather and waters, it has evolved into any one of the three names. For purposes of ease and clarity, we refer to it here as Kona.
Because Kona is nestled in the lee of the Hualalai Volcano, it is sheltered from the trade winds coming from the other side of the island. The winds it does get are usually from wraparound sea breezes. The rains from them have already been wrung out. Thus, Kona boasts almost perfect weather all year round. The average high in February (the coldest month) is 80F/27C and the low is 64F/18C, whereas in August (the warmest month), the high is 87F/30C and the low is 69F/20C. Those balmy wraparound onshore breezes keep the weather comfortable. Normal weather conditions in Kona mean clear mornings with warmer afternoons, and occasional evening showers in the summer, which cool the humidity.
Aside from its spectacular tropical weather, Kona boasts the calmest, clearest water in the entire state of Hawaii. This means that idyllic beaches and a huge array of water sports abound.
The Hilo Side
The Hilo side of the island is plant heaven. Unlike the Kona side which is dominated by lava-covered landscapes, this east side of the island is green and lush. Hilo gets around 140 inches/356 centimeters of rain a year which means that you’re more than likely to get wet during a visit there. However, all that water creates amazing flora and fauna, and breathtaking waterfalls; and Hilo is more convenient for exploring the Kilauea volcano.
Activities & Adventures
The Big Island features an enormous variety of things to see and do: snorkeling, whale watching, fishing, golfing, SCUBA, surfing, hiking, kayaking, biking, horseback riding, helicopter tours, boat trips, and more.
Here are some popular offerings.
WHALE WATCHING
Between November and April, sit out on our condo lanai and you’re likely to see the humpback whales frolic right past. You’ll have a private front-row seat to this amazing sight and, most of our guests have reported daily sightings for the duration of their months-long stays. If you’d like an up close and personal sighting, there are boats that will take you offshore to study these magnificent sea mammals.
SCUBA
The Kona side of the island is a paradise for SCUBA diving. Kona waters are mostly shielded from the winds so the waters are usually calm and warm. Boat dives and shore dives are offered.
For boat dives:
Pacific Rim Divers
For beginners and shore dives:
Jacks Diving Locker
FISHING
Kona is famous for its big game fishing. With calm, sunny conditions 300 days out of the year and waters teeming with big game fish like 1000-pound/454 kilo marlins, this is the place to try your luck at catching the big one! The most popular and best method is to go on a shared or private charter boat. Keep in mind, though, that whatever fish is caught belongs to the boat, so you won’t be taking any fish steaks home.
GOLFING
The Big Island is a golfer’s paradise – there is a plethora of golf courses to choose from. Some of the best ones are in Kohala, on the Kona side.
SNORKELING
There are quite a few beaches that are great for snorkeling (see under BEACHES). However, if you choose to, you can take a snorkel boat tour. Snorkel boat tours are great for a chance to swim with dolphins in their natural environment. An amazing experience is the nighttime Manta Ray dive which lets you experience these majestic creatures up close.
Fair Wind Big Island Ocean Guides
Nightime Manta Ray Dive
Manta Ray Advocates
HIKING
There is a huge array of hikes to be experienced on The Big Island. You can hike along an old Hawaiian lava trail, through a rain forest, a steep valley, or a tropical beach. Here are some popular trails.
KAYAKING
One of the most popular kayak areas is across Kealakekua Bay to the Captain Cook Monument. You can rent single and double kayaks to operate on your own or with a guide. There are also guided kayak tours available.
BIKING
A fun way to explore the island is on a bicycle. You can rent them and go off on your own or take a guided tour.
HORSEBACK RIDING
One of the most memorable ways to go down into magnificent Waipi’o Valley is by horseback. There are also wonderful rides offered around other parts of the island.
SURFING
As to be expected, there are some gnarly waves to be ridden around the island. Whether you’re an experienced surfer or a beginner, there are boards to be rented and lessons to be had at:
HELICOPTER TOURS
See Paradise from above. While we recommend most helicopter tours out of Hilo if you want to see the volcano, there is one exception, the Big Island Spectacular from Blue Hawaiian, which offers the volcano and a Hamakua Coast tour which is…well, spectacular.
HAWAI’I NAT’L PARK
Kilauea Volcano is probably the most user-friendly active volcano in the world. There is so much to see at this park that you could easily spend a few days here.
COFFEE PLANTATION TOUR
Find out how that delicious Kona coffee is produced. Mountain Thunder Coffee Farm gives free tours every hour throughout the day as well as an inexpensive Lava Tube and Nature Walk self-led tour that leads you through the plantation. There are also private group tours and a Roast Master Experience.
CLIFF JUMPING
Just off the road to the parking lot for Green Sands Beach is the South Point Cliffs. A lot of daredevils try out cliff jumping here and all we can say is: exercise caution if you do decide to go for it. There are no lifeguards here. It is a 40-foot/12-meter drop so it’s not for everybody!
BEACHES
Our idea of an ideal beach is an uncrowded one – we don’t like to share! Many of the beaches on the Big Island are relatively uncrowded, especially compared to the more tourist-heavy islands of Maui, Kaua’i, and O’ahu. Here are some of our favorites where having the entire beach to yourselves for the day is not unheard of.
Kukio Beach
Set your GPS to Kuki’o Nui Road off Queen Ka’ahumanu Highway (just south of mile marker 87) and turn into the road. The beach is inside a residential property and private golf and beach club, but all you need to do is go up to the guard station at the gate and tell them you are going to the beach. By law, the public can have access to any beach so as long as the 27 available beach parking spaces are not full, you have every right to enter. It’s best to go before noon on weekdays, by 10 am on weekends in order to secure your parking spot. The beach is a dreamy white sand and blue water haven. There is a protected cove at the beginning which is great for children. Look closely in the water and in the afternoon you will likely be able to spot turtles swimming into shore. Colorful fish dart in and out amongst the rocks and in the clear spots where you can enter the water – you won’t need a mask to spot them!
Nashakoa Nui Baby Beach
From Ali’i Drive, turn onto Kuakini Highway, follow it as it swerves to the left and follow it until it takes you into the beach parking lot. The beach is on Old Kona Bay. Follow the parking lot to the farther end of the beach which is the more secluded part. Mostly locals come here so during the week, you’ll practically have the place to yourselves.
Hapuna Beach
Year after year, travel magazines have voted this beach one of the best in the world. This is the jewel of The Big Island. With its white sand, clean, calm blue water, gorgeous scenery and easy access, this beach offers excellent swimming, snorkeling, and boogie boarding conditions. Go during the week for best uncrowded conditions.
Go north from Kona, to mile marker 70 of Hwy 19. Turn makai (towards the ocean) at the sign for Hāpuna Beach State Park and continue for 1/4 mile to the large parking lot. Do not leave valuables in your car! Visitors to the Big Island pay a small parking fee to help maintain the park. Parking is free for locals.
Waialea Beach / 69 Beach
A beautifully pristine white sand beach that offers extensive marine life which means exceptional snorkeling and SCUBA activities. In the winter months, you are likely to see humpback whales outside the bay. From Kona, take highway 19 north about 23 miles past the Waikoloa resorts. Turn to the left on the exit after you pass the resorts, onto Puako Beach Drive. From Puako Beach Drive, take the first right onto the Old Puako Road. Read the numbers on the telephone pole and turn left between poles 69 and 70 (about half a mile).
Puako
Set your GPS for Puako Beach Drive which is a turn-off from Queen Ka’ahumanu Highway. There are about a dozen public beach access signs nestled amongst the multi-million dollar homes. Choose one that is unclaimed for the day, and you will likely have it to yourselves for the rest of the day. If you stay until late afternoon into evening, it is more than likely that you will be kept company by a honu (sea turtle) or two. Remember to keep your distance (by law) but you’ll be close enough to hear them sighing (their signature sound). We have had honu sit by us in Puako for 4-5 hours…occasionally slipping into the water for a dip, only to return to the same spot. Most of the spots are smaller coves so if you’re looking for a wide expanse of beach, this is not for you.
Kekaha Kai / Mahai’ula Beach
24 minutes drive from Kona Reef
From Queen Ka’ahumanu Highway, look for sign for Kekaha Kai and turn into it. You will absolutely need a sport utility vehicle to get to this beach – the lava rock-filled road to it is extremely rough and will take some concentrated driving for the 10 minutes or so before you get to the paved parking lots. Beware if you have back problems! Once there, you have two choices. The main beach is at the second parking lot and is pretty, with white sand and is very open. There’s a good chance that you will see monk seals at rest on the shore as this is one of their favorite beaches. Make sure to follow the rules and keep 10 feet back! Mahai’ula Beach is accessible only by foot – park in the first parking lot and then walk north for 5 minutes. There are freshwater springs here at this very picturesque beach.
Makole’a Beach
This is a black sand beach, the only one on the Kona side of the island. Following the Kekaha Kai directions (above), take a left at the first parking lot and drive the lava road heading south. At the end of the drive, follow the faint car path that is marked by coral. The other choice you have is to park at Kehaka Kai and walk along the shoreline for 15-20 minutes until the sandy trail is blocked by lava. Continue by walking on the smooth lava behind the beach boulders until you reach a small cove where the black sand beach is. The area is well protected so the water is calm and it’s a great place to swim and snorkel.
Kiholo State Park/Beach
This is a little harder to find. Take Queen Ka’ahumanu Highway (HWY 19) north from the condo. The public access road is a left off the highway between Mile Marker #82 and #83. There is no sign on the highway indicating the turn-off, only a dirt pull-off with an access gate set back from the highway. This is a camping site as well as a beach access and in 450 paces to the north (or to the right as you face Makai/the ocean) is:
- The Queen’s Bath – an open air lava tube that is filled with cold fresh water. It is easy to miss as you hike along the shoreline so keep an eye out about 450 paces or 20 minutes in on your right. Keep walking after taking a refreshing dip and find a great snorkeling area, usually with honu/turtles!
Punalu’u Black Sand Beach
This beach is quite popular with tourists but well worth a visit. Beside the picturesque palm trees and freshwater pond, this is where you’ll actually see groups of honu / sea turtles if you haven’t already during your trip. And yes, the sand is truly black, caused by lava flow remnants that have been ground down into tiny pieces in the water.
Papakolea Green Sands Beach
Yes, the sand really is green here; it is an olive green color, the result of broken down pieces of a semi-precious gem called olivine that was deposited from ancient volcanic eruptions. You have two choices to get to Green Sand Beach: hike the 3-mile/4.8-km of rough road (and we mean ROUGH), or opt to pay $20 to one of the locals who have set up a mini-business there in the parking lot to drive you there. Be sure to verify that your transportation is seated as we have seen any number of unsuspecting tourists herded into standing room only spaces on the backs of ancient trucks! Even with seats, the ride is not for the fainthearted and certainly not for those with bad backs. It’s a roller coaster ride but once you arrive at the cliffs above the beach, it’s worth it just for the views. The climb down to the actual beach is not easy. It’s a steep descent and on sand so it can be slippery. We recommend water shoes with a good grip. Once down there though, the experience is breathtaking. The wind can be quite strong there and therefore, the water can be rough. If the waves are particularly strong, your local driver will warn you, or use your own better judgment. All of the trouble to get there notwithstanding, it’s an experience not to be missed!
Food (Onolicious)
on·o·li·cious adjective Local Hawaiian slang for amazingly delicious tasting. Ono in Hawaiian means delicious.
The Big Island is teeming with onolicious eateries of all types. Here are some of our favorites.
Kona
Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill
Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill, 75-5995 Kuakini Hwy (8-minute drive from Kona Reef)
During high season (October – March), call ahead for reservation: 808-327-0209
Yum, yum, and yum. Great cocktails, good choice of wines, and a satisfying menu. We recommend the Seafood Trio.
Huggo’s On The Rocks
Huggos On The Rocks – Kahakai Road is that little side road that runs right in front of the Kona Reef parking lot. Follow this road toward town. On The Rocks is just after the more upscale and formal Huggo’s. The less formal On The Rocks features a sand floor, right-next-to-the-water dining, and live music in the evenings (mostly throwback cover bands of the holiday variety but fairly decent). An informal menu that’s decent – we recommend the fish tacos.
Huggo’s On The Rocks, 75-5828 Kahakai Rd (5-minute WALK from Kona Reef)
Ultimate Burger
74-5450 Makala Blvd Suite E112 (in the Ross/Office Max shopping center) (10-minute drive from Kona Reef)
Absolutely delicious burgers made from scratch using local ingredients: grass fed beef with no hormones or antibiotics, daily baked local brioche buns, organic fresh veggies , and fresh cut and double blanched REAL French fries seasoned with organic herbs, kosher salt, with house made aioli dipping sauce. There are also fresh local catch fish burgers. Nothing frozen here!
808 Grindz Café
808 Grindz Café, 75-5660 Kopiko St (8-minute drive from Kona Reef)
Where locals go for breakfast and lunch. Good, hearty food, low prices, and cash only.
Fosters Kitchen
Foster’s Kitchen, 75-5805 Ali’i Dr (a 10-minute walk from Kona Reef) 808-326-1600
This upstairs restaurant situated right along the main drag in Kona and is an easy walk from Kona Reef. Kahakai Road is that little side road that runs right in front of the Kona Reef parking lot. From D36, take the stairs down to the ground floor and follow the road toward town. When you reach Ali’i Drive, cross the street and the restaurant is just a little up the road on your right. The upstairs location gives you a lovely view of the ocean as you dine. Food is casual American with a southern emphasis. Their blackened shrimp cheese grits are delicious and they have nice offerings on their wine list.
Big Island Pizza
Big Island Pizza, 73-5618 Maiau St Suite B-102 (17-minute drive from Kona Reef)
Fresh ingredients on pizzas cooked in a wood fire oven. Very satisfying! Open for lunch (until 3pm) and dinner (until 8pm).
Cool Runnings Food Truck
Weekdays 11am-4pm: at the 76 gas station on corner of Kuakini Hwy & Hualalai (5-minute drive from Kona Reef)
Yummy Jamaican food that should not be missed! Chef Andrew uses all fresh ingredients and what is in season. For Jamaican food aficionados, that means that if you’re lucky and it’s in season, you’ll get fresh callaloo in your mixed vegetables and ripe plantains. There is good jerk chicken, the sliders are delicious, and the curry shrimp is out of this world. The cornbread is made fresh and is scrumptious.
Scandinavian Shave Ice
Scandinavian Shave Ice, 75-5699 Ali’i Drive (12-minute walk from Kona Reef)
The ultimate Hawaiian delicacy – you must have this at least once while on the island! Don’t let the name fool you: Scandinavian Shave Ice is all Hawaiian. Choice of 3 flavors and the small size is plenty for an individual serving. Go ahead and treat yourself to the extras: a dollop of Dole whip, sweet condensed milk, ice-cream, and/or boba inside your shave ice. And make sure you go local and call it “shave ice” NOT “shaved ice” ☺
Papa Kona
Papa Kona, The Waterfront Row, 75-5770 Ali’i Dr (15-minute walk from Kona Reef) 808-300-0044
Located right on the waterfront, this restaurant features fun cocktails and delicious food. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Napua Restaurant
Napua Restaurant (@Mauna Lani Beach Club), 68-1292 S. Kaniku Dr, Waikoloa Village (45-minute drive from Kona Reef) (808) 885-5910 / napuarestaurant.com
For special occasions, this is an absolutely wonderful upscale restaurant, probably one of the best, if not THE best on the island! Owned and operated by two local Big Island boys who grew up together, this oceanfront restaurant offers fresh, organic and locally sourced regional cuisine from an impressive up and coming young chef. Service is impeccable and the surroundings and restaurant are beautiful. If you go for lunch, you get to enjoy the beach and surroundings but there is no dedicated parking for the restaurant until 5pm so you have to use the beach parking area and trek over to the restaurant. For dinner, unless you go early, the beach is not visible, but you park right next to the restaurant and there is live music that is wonderfully relaxing and puts you in a Hawaiian frame of mind. The prime rib steak is delicious! Reservations are highly recommended!
Rays on the Bay
Rays On The Bay, 78-128 Ehukai St (16 minute drive from Kona Reef) (808) 930-4949
Just a short drive south of the condo. You can make a reservation for dinner or just check it out. The best part of this place is that you can witness the Manta Rays without getting wet!
Sam Choy’s Kai Lani
Sam Choy’s Kai Lani, 78-6831 Alii Dr (11 minute drive from Kona Reef) (808) 333-3434
Happy Hour 2-6pm is great here – Hawaiian drinks and pupus. The view is gorgeous and when in season, you can watch the whales frolic from the patio. Or you can linger a little while longer and stay for a delicious dinner.
Gypsea Gelato
Gypsea Gelato, 75-5817 Ali’I Dr _ 6-minute walk from Kona Reef (behind the ABC store)
(Also: 79-7491 Mamalahoa Hwy, Kealakekua – 17-minute drive from Kona Reef)
Absolutely amazing gelato! Large selection of island-centric flavors as well as your more traditional fare. Don’t miss it!
Umeke’s Fish Market Bar & Grill
Umeke’s Fish Market Bar & Grill 74-5599 Pawai Place (8-minute drive from Kona Reef) 808-238-0571
This is where the locals come for the best poke on the island – fresh and delicious! This is their new location (they reopened in November, 2020) which features a lovely larger outdoor patio and much improved parking availability.
SOUTH KONA / CAPTAIN COOK
Coffee Shack
Coffee Shack, 83-5799 Mamalahoa Hwy ( 26-minute drive from Kona Reef)
This is an absolute MUST for breakfast while on the island! They open at 7:30am. There is an out-of-this-world view of Mount Hualalai overlooking Kealakekua and Honaunau. Try to get there early-ish (9am) in the morning and ask for a railing table so you can admire the view while you eat. Also, this will give you the experience of having the neon-green colored gekkos sit on the window ledge next to you. Entice them down by opening a packet of the guave jam and you will see them lap those up! There is a gigantic avocado tree and tons of coffee trees below – the coffee you’re drinking comes from those trees. Order the banana bread!
Reel Aloha Poke and Fish Co
81-6641 Mamalahoa Hwy, Kealakekua (19-minute drive from Kona Reef)
The BEST and freshest poke on the island! The owners are two young fishermen who have been providing fresh locally-caught fish to the community for over 10 years. They are open daily 11 am – 6pm and offer a delicious array of poke and sides to take out. There is a small seating area in front of their shop front. HIGHLY RECOMMEND!
WAIMEA
Village Burger Waimea
This place is unassumingly located in a shopping mall: Parker Ranch Center, but don’t let appearances fool you. Foodies from all over come here for the gourmet locally raised Hawaii island beef, wagyu beef, lamb and veal burgers. Make sure to order a side of their unbelievably delicious truffle fries. For non-meat eaters, they offer veggie mushroom, ahi tuna, and taro burgers. Open every day until 6pm.
HONOKA’A
Gramma’s Kitchen
Gramma’s Kitchen, 45-3625 Mamane St (1 hour 17-minute drive from Kona Reef)
A good old fashioned diner that serves really well-made food. The owner’s Portuguese roots add a twist to the menu and the omelette with local mushrooms and accompanying Hollandaise sauce is amazingly light. Open for breakfast and lunch (until 3pm).
HILO
Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill Hilo
Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill Hilo, 64 Keawe St
This is the Hilo twin of the one in Kona. Equally delicious and definitely a worthwhile dining experience.
Pineapples Island Fresh Cuisine
Pineapples Island Fresh Cuisine, 332 Keawe St
Open air with live music in the evenings. Satisfying island food at its best. Closed Mondays, open the rest of the week until 10pm.
Hilo Farmers Market
Hilo Farmers Market , Mamo St & Kamehameha Ave
Lots of local exotic fruits when in season: rambutans, lychees, mangosteens, papayas, pineapples, longans, cherimoyas, durians…and lots of organic vegetables. Many food booths to choose from too. As with most famers market, bring cash and your own carrier bags.
Two Ladies Kitchen
Two Ladies Kitchen, 274 Kilauea Ave 808-961-4766
Love mochi? This is THE place to get it! Usually a queue at the door for this world class mochi, even if you pre-order (which is recommended). All made fresh and on the bucket list of many a foodie. Open Tuesday – Saturday 10am – 4pm.